Eliminate the left side; Why??

Status
Not open for further replies.
For years, you hear about people eliminating the left side of the course. Why the left side? Why do you rarely hear anyone speak of eliminating the right side (except for a lefty)? And don't tell me about Lee Buck's saying, either, lol! Besides the stopping ability of the fade;

- What are some other reasons for it's reliability over the draw, particularly if you eliminate the ground as a factor for consideration (ie, the in-flight characteristics, impact, etc.)?

- Is this train of thought still valid in this era of the lower-spinning ball?

- Does anybody here know of anybody that DOES eliminate the right side of the course (besides a lefty), with consistently positive results.

I'm very curious to hear the responses. Brian, I'm also curious to hear yours, as I know you spend a lot of time experimenting, and that you like to move the ball around.

Thanks
 

hue

New
A pull shot or hook keeps on going and will hussle deep into trouble. A block or a slice tends to land more softly and not keep going with the same penetration after it lands. The bad shot left tends to be more destructive.
 
Short right is usually better than long left

Followed Nicklaus when his back was giving him trouble in a Senior event. Hit tons of soft fades, many short and right of the green. Not a single shot missed left. Shot 1 under.

Missed left iron shots often travel too far, this can be very troublesome around the green, while missed right shots tend to fly too short. Therefore with the missed right shot the golf hole is still in front of you....with the long left miss who knows what you'll find greenside.
 
So should everyone start doing Never Slice Again until they start to hook then switch to Never Hook Again to fade the ball?
 
ever see someone snap hook a ball that goes about 150 yards out and then 150 yards to the left? Kind of hard to do that with a slice. My worst slice is nowhere near my worst hook
 
I think playing a fade is a much easier way to eliminate the two way miss...Especially with the longer clubs, a shot that moves left to right is far more reliable than trying to move the ball right to left consistantly.

To hit a correctly released draw with (especially) the new drivers is very difficult, IMO, and in trying to hit the shot, it often brings the hook or the block into play. A fade is much more controlled and it is very hard to hook a shot when you're trying to cut it.

Stew
 

Jim Kobylinski

Super Moderator
Here's the delio:

Hook/Slice spin is a misnomer, it's simply backspin and the ball's axis has tilted one way or the other to create the turn.

What is important to note is that no matter what a "hook spin" will have less backspin in RPM compared to the same "slice spin."

Why does that matter? The more backspin a ball has the harder it is to tilt it's axis one way or the other. That's why it's easier to curve a driver than a wedge (less backspin).

So now that you know this, you should start to figure out that when a ball hooks it is a delofted face (less loft = less backspin ALWAYS) which means it can tilt more one way or the other. When a ball slices it is an open face (more loft = more backspin ALWAYS) which means it won't tilt as much and thus tend to fly higher and land softer.

now you should also see from my post why a draw goes further than a fade ;)
 
I try to eliminate the right side of the golf course with SOME success; I shoot from the mid 80's to the high 70's.

I still can't figure out that damn driver, so I leave it at home. Truthfully, my driver is in two pieces!!!!

I hate how modern drivers look like they all have a hook face, for a player that draws the ball that sykes me out before I even swing the club. I've been playing my 19 degree iron shaped hybrid off the tee, and flight it 250. I'm thinking about getting properly fitted for a driver, and just maybe even trying an open faced driver...

Any advice guys??? My irons are pristine!

There's nothing like hitting a perfect lil draw with a long iron.
 
All correctly made clubs have a lead angle between the handle and the clubface. So a square driver face appears to be closed when soled, UNTIL you move the handle an inch to the left of perpendicular to the target line.

THEN it is as manufactured. And for a good reason: even on a drive you want separation to occur with the left hand a bit ahead of the face.
 

Jim Kobylinski

Super Moderator
I try to eliminate the right side of the golf course with SOME success; I shoot from the mid 80's to the high 70's.

I still can't figure out that damn driver, so I leave it at home. Truthfully, my driver is in two pieces!!!!

I hate how modern drivers look like they all have a hook face, for a player that draws the ball that sykes me out before I even swing the club. I've been playing my 19 degree iron shaped hybrid off the tee, and flight it 250. I'm thinking about getting properly fitted for a driver, and just maybe even trying an open faced driver...

Any advice guys??? My irons are pristine!

There's nothing like hitting a perfect lil draw with a long iron.

Look into Tour Issued Drivers. Maybe Brian could hook you up with one or find one in the buy/sell/trade at BSG or Golfwrx.

All retail drivers are much more heel weighted and closed faced than any tour head. The closest thing that you will find that is neutrally internally weighted and square to open faced (at retail) is the Adams 430Q or the Adams 460D.

For someone who hits a 19* hybrid 250 i would really ask you look into either head. Both tend to be square to open and are more of a low launching very low spinning head. For someone with your swing speed you shouldn't have trouble launching it high enough due to the amount of ball speed you create.

The Adams 460D is probably the best driver you have never tried at retail. Plus you can pick them up on ebay for really cheap. Just match it with a good shaft and i think you'll have a winner.
 
Look into Tour Issued Drivers. Maybe Brian could hook you up with one or find one in the buy/sell/trade at BSG or Golfwrx.

All retail drivers are much more heel weighted and closed faced than any tour head. The closest thing that you will find that is neutrally internally weighted and square to open faced (at retail) is the Adams 430Q or the Adams 460D.

For someone who hits a 19* hybrid 250 i would really ask you look into either head. Both tend to be square to open and are more of a low launching very low spinning head. For someone with your swing speed you shouldn't have trouble launching it high enough due to the amount of ball speed you create.

The Adams 460D is probably the best driver you have never tried at retail. Plus you can pick them up on ebay for really cheap. Just match it with a good shaft and i think you'll have a winner.


Thanks. I will have to look into that.

We'll have to upgrade your hotel stay to the Marriot :)
 

Brian Manzella

Administrator
I try to eliminate the right side of the golf course with SOME success; I shoot from the mid 80's to the high 70's.

I still can't figure out that damn driver, so I leave it at home. Truthfully, my driver is in two pieces!!!!

I hate how modern drivers look like they all have a hook face, for a player that draws the ball that sykes me out before I even swing the club. I've been playing my 19 degree iron shaped hybrid off the tee, and flight it 250. I'm thinking about getting properly fitted for a driver, and just maybe even trying an open faced driver...

Any advice guys??? My irons are pristine!

There's nothing like hitting a perfect lil draw with a long iron.

That's why "BombSquadGolf" is such a big site.

They exposed the lie that the PGA Tour Pros play with the same equipment.

Get you a "Tour Head" or a Taylor Made TP and set the screws correctly for you.
 

Brian Manzella

Administrator
Fade vs. Draw

My whole High School career I hit a very low fade while trying to hit a straight ball. Made All-District, played in the State Tourney, but was the biggest underacheiver in High School Golf History.

In my very last round of High School golf, I started double-bogey, OB. I had enough of the straight ball fallacy, I decide to try to slice it about as far as I could on every shot.

I hit every green the rest of the way except one fringe, and if I would have puttted a lick, I would have shot under par. As it was, I turned a disaster into a 77 and decided I was going to be the next Lee Trevino.

I read his book, and played my next 100 holes right at par...then...I started hitting an off the earth slice and really short....yuck.

I tried everything and was lucky to de-Slice my game back to the ridiculously roundhouse shoulder turn pull-fade. I started playing with the really good players in town and I think I shocked them at how good I could play looking THAT bad swinging the club.

A few months later, an old pro at the Driving Range named Al Jewel, told me to "swing my orms." As I have said before, I got 5 shots better in about two buckets of balls.

But now I hit a pull-DRAW!

That was February of 1980. Before that the lowest handicap I had was a 4. By that May I was a 1.

In January of '81, I walked on at Southeastern Louisiana and was the #4 man on the team. By that October I was no worse than the #2 man, has a +2.5 handicap and won the team's match play event.

All of this because I learn to hit a draw and learned to putt a lick.

But, as the story goes, I wasn't happy with my pull-draw-hook and tried to learn to hit it straight doing all the stuff that was "supposed to be right."

I couldn't break 85.

Between Novemeber of 1981 and January of 1982, I broke the all-time record for reading golf books. I actually started to make sense of it, and thanks to Jimmy Ballard's book, by February I was back to a 0 handicap.

But I hit a mini-draw mostly, and a fade with the driver off the deck, & I lost distance and didn't get my handicap below that +2.5 until September of 1983.

All my pals would say, "Boy you hit it better when you hit a draw."

They were right, but I was teaching and working as an assistant to the pro and didn't have the nerve to try to go "back."

My playing from those post-Ballard days, to my "Absolute Golf" days as a young teacher, never approached that Snead-like pull-hook game at SLU.

Why?

Because with that pattern I knew where the ball wasn't going.

And the draw with a flip was more "trapped" than the fade with a flip.

I went to see Ben in 1987 and got 40 yards longer with the Driver and 25 with the irons. I just hit it straight and long.

But, it was TRAPPED correctly.

When I went to the fade exclusively in early 1994, I was playing in a club with my High School pals and my big brother, I had a handicap to play in the money games and got it as low as a +5.2

It was LESS trapped, but it was NEVER going left.

I may have never changed...but...in 2000 I had all of this access to Valhalla and MOST OF THE PROS I SAW HIT A TRAPPED HOOK.

I switched over and played great, except under pressure.

I had attempted to go back to the fade, but, the feel of that 1994-97 pattern was long gone.

Now with my new pattern, It wants to draw, so I'll keep you folks posted.


The moral?


Easier to control a fade, draw goes further and more solid. Pick your poison.;)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top