Wedge Configuration?

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I'm currently using old hand-me-down Cleveland wedges that my dad used to use. I don't even know what bounce they have. All I know is that I use a 52, 56 and 60-degree.

And I know that for 60 and 80 yard wedge shots, I tend to have a steeper angle of attack than more golfers. As a result, my divots are larger than usual.

That being the case, what is likely to be the best general bounce / sole grind configuration for me?
 
I took Granato's advice and picked up a Taylor Made ATV wedge and am really liking it. Can still get a bit steep and not dig a bunch. I have really tried to learn how to use the bounce though.
 
I took Granato's advice and picked up a Taylor Made ATV wedge and am really liking it. Can still get a bit steep and not dig a bunch. I have really tried to learn how to use the bounce though.

I'm definitely learning to use the bounce a lot. Actually opening the face some on chip shots.

Anyway, what I'm really wondering is what different bounces should typically be used in a three-wedge set. Should the 56-degree have tons of bounce, the 60-degree very little and the 52-degree in-between? Etc. Etc.
 
my sand wedge has a fair amount of bounce (11 degrees) so i can use it for a variety of shots. i have 4 degrees of bounce on my lobber for flops, packed sand, or when i need to really cut under the ball.

 
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"I'm currently using old hand-me-down Cleveland wedges that my dad used to use"

Don't know how much play these have had over the years, but wedges do wear out.
Bounce is tricky. I've had Vokeys, Scratch, and now Ping Tour S. The 60 degree wedges
from that I had from Vokey and Scratch had like 4 degree bounce. My current Ping has
10 degrees. Frankly, I can't tell much difference, other than the 10 degree is easier from
the sand on those short bunker shots.
 
A single bounce number is becoming a thing of the past. By varying sole widths and shapes, wedges can have a couple different "bounces". Just going in and looking for a wedge with X amount of bounce is a limiting way of buying wedges in today's market. Look for wedges with "Swiss Army" soles. No matter what you pick, remember wedges are disposable with a relatively short effective groove life.
 
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Jared Willerson

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Wedges need to be bought on a yearly basis for someone that plays 50 or so rounds per year. If you tack on a lot of practice with wedges having them replaced mid season isn't a bad idea.
 
Hearing some of these comments, I'm definitely inclined to buy new wedges cheaply from a company like Adams. Maybe even cheaper. I'd rather not spend $360 or so on wedges every single year.
 
Wedges need to be bought on a yearly basis for someone that plays 50 or so rounds per year. If you tack on a lot of practice with wedges having them replaced mid season isn't a bad idea.
I thought there still exist tour players who plays with the same wedge for many years. Or do they all replace them every few months?
 
I play a lot , 60 to 70 rounds a year, and practice a lot. This is one of the reasons I decided to switch to Ping. I always hated Ping irons, how they looked and how high I hit them. I went with the S-56's and Tour S wedges. 17-4 Stainless should wear much better than softer steel heads. After 1 year, the wedges and irons are in very good shape face wise.
 
With the current grooves, I can't imagine anyone who gets them for free not having "fresh" grooves every time they tee it up. Can't see one plus to using worn grooves when it's a key tool you use to earn a living. Just think about what the equivalent grit of sandpaper would be for bunker sand, 60 grit?. Now practice bunker shots a few hours week every week. That's a lot of abrasion from just one aspect of wedge practice.
 
With the current grooves, I can't imagine anyone who gets them for free not having "fresh" grooves every time they tee it up. Can't see one plus to using worn grooves when it's a key tool you use to earn a living. Just think about what the equivalent grit of sandpaper would be for bunker sand, 60 grit?. Now practice bunker shots a few hours week every week. That's a lot of abrasion from just one aspect of wedge practice.

and don't forget the "new" groove rules making those well used heads very fast "non-conforming"...
 
With the current grooves, I can't imagine anyone who gets them for free not having "fresh" grooves every time they tee it up. Can't see one plus to using worn grooves when it's a key tool you use to earn a living. Just think about what the equivalent grit of sandpaper would be for bunker sand, 60 grit?. Now practice bunker shots a few hours week every week. That's a lot of abrasion from just one aspect of wedge practice.

This seems to me like the kind of thing that could help a 4-handicapper a lot more than a 10-handicapper like me........
 
This seems to me like the kind of thing that could help a 4-handicapper a lot more than a 10-handicapper like me........

You'd think that, until you hit a premium ball with fresh grooves and get it to stop on a dime. I totally get the expense part of it though. That's why I haven't bought new wedges in a while. The last I bought was I think 2011. They had some Taylormade's 2 for $100 at Dicks Sporting Goods. I think I'll invest in new ones this year. The wedges aren't as glamourous as a shiny new driver to most, but I really think that extra spin can make the difference between a 3 foot putt for par, and a 10 foot putt for par.
 
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You'd think that, until you hit a premium ball with fresh grooves and get it to stop on a dime. I totally get the expense part of it though. That's why I haven't bought new wedges in a while. The last I bought was I think 2011. They had some Taylormade's 2 for $100 at Dicks Sporting Goods. I think I'll invest in new ones this year. The wedges aren't as glamourous as a shiny new driver to most, but I really think that extra spin can make the difference between a 3 foot putt for par, and a 10 foot putt for par.

Why not buy something ultra-cheap like MacGregor or Snake Eyes wedges?
 
Why not buy something ultra-cheap like MacGregor or Snake Eyes wedges?

Because I've found in most cases you get what you pay for basically. I would buy component parts and make my own to save money, but I haven't really seen much that impresses me. Same reason I don't buy ultra cheap balls. Sometimes name brand stuff is more because of the name, sometimes its more because it's just better. Mostly I've never really heard anything about those wedges. If someone who's opinion I respected told me they were worth a try, then I'd give them a try.
 
Because I've found in most cases you get what you pay for basically. I would buy component parts and make my own to save money, but I haven't really seen much that impresses me. Same reason I don't buy ultra cheap balls. Sometimes name brand stuff is more because of the name, sometimes its more because it's just better. Mostly I've never really heard anything about those wedges. If someone who's opinion I respected told me they were worth a try, then I'd give them a try.

I like to buy last year's premium balls, like the Callaway Tour iZ on eBay. They're typically available barely used for around $1.00 per ball.
 
Yeah I like to stock up on the last years model too. I'm down with saving money if I can. I stay away from the used ones though because I'm always suspicious of where they came from.
 
I hit pitches with my brand new Edel wedge yesterday and the mico-grooves are already worn off. I guess this is why Vijay uses new wedges EVERY WEEK. Must be nice.
 
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