low point

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where is the most efficient low point for a driver, 5 iron and putter? That is to give best result for reasonably straight drive and 5 iron and best roll for straight putt.
 
Now there is a global question, about which books (at least chapters ) have been written. You are seeking finite answers to questions involving variables. One variable is the definition of efficient. However, just to illustrate, here are my answers.

1. Driver - In front of the ball, at the ball, after the ball.
2. 5 Iron - After the ball, from slightly to whatever 4-5 degrees downward angle of attack equals.
3. Putt - In front of the ball
 
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Thanks efficient would be a shot that doesn't have too much back or topspin or leakage for maximum control.
Follow what you say re iron but if thats the case surely the driver can't be all 3, would i be right in defining the low point on full shots is when left arm aligns with shaft and clubhead (rt.hander) and if so is most efficient at ball or infront?
I realise putting is different to full shots but if an efficient putt is one that begins rolling asap are you saying the low point is in front, how far in front depends on loft, contact point and angle of approach?
if this is the case rather than low point is the angle of approach,contact point and loft the key to efficient putts and do you or anyone out there know if this is a constant angle ie angle + or - degrees of loft = an angle of x for roll asap?
 
You have to do the work. Nobody can do it for you because it would take too long and would basically be re-gurgitation.

You can find threads on low-point by using the search feature in this forum. You can use Google as follows, site:XYZ.com yoursearchterm.

Videos often are the best route to understanding. Brian's D-Plane on this site's home page should help understand low point. Want to understand Putting? Geoff Mangum's site will tell you more than you might want to know about that subject.

Start slow. Investigate top spin. It doesn't happen. If it did, the ball would not fly.
 
I guess i should have put "not too much or too little backspin " to be more accurate, but i was trying to get answers to the points of the questions and avoid it being taken off tangent like your answer. i think it would have been better to not answer if you can't help or don't know.
 
thanks for direction will look into, although if you know and gave me the answer i could use the time developing and improving in the area of the answer. Thanks again
 
I'm no expert, but I have made the effort to learn. I have many years of management experience. People who reported to me, would often, at least for a few tries, come to me seeking answers. I often did know the answer, but refused to spoon feed them. I challenged them to go figure it out on themselves. I wanted people to grow. They were better off in the end, and sometimes their answers were better than mine.

Just the way I see the world.
 

dbl

New
From Brian's stuff, look up things related to a straight shot (mostly in dplane material). However note he allows for a range of ball positions for irons (and woods), depending on the player. I bet it's a range of almost 2 inches.

Now for a given player for a 5 iron who plays best (finds it easiest to use his swing pattern) with the ball an inch left of center of stance....can he use same basic stoke with ball an inch ahead of that or behind, and make his stroke still work?

I would say yes. But as to your definition of efficient, I have no idea. I believe he could minutely change his angle of attack for each of those other ball positions and have just about the same impact conditions.
 
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...avoid it being taken off tangent like your answer. i think it would have been better to not answer if you can't help or don't know....

Why do you feel you would be able to understand my answer while you are still in the "topspin age" :confused: My answer was already to hard for you to understand.

Why answer the question "where is the most efficient low point for a driver to give best result for reasonably straight drive" if you do not define "efficient" and would you be able to understand that there is a difference between "efficient" and "best" low point?

Why don't you explain what your definition is of "reasonable straight drive" ? And are we talking about a 200 yard reasonable straight or 300 yards reasonable straight. Or would you like to know the answer for your own ""reasonable straight drive"

I don't mind helping, in fact I like to help. But please improve you questions.
 
Why do you feel you would be able to understand my answer while you are still in the "topspin age" My answer was already to hard for you to understand.NOT REALLY, JUST DIDN'T WANT A TENNIS MATCH, OTHERS GOT THE DRIFT AND MADE HELPFUL SUGGESTIONS

Why answer the question "where is the most efficient low point for a driver to give best result for reasonably straight drive" if you do not define "efficient" and would you be able to understand that there is a difference between "efficient" and "best" low point? OK LETS NOT SPLIT HAIRS CALL IT BEST

Why don't you explain what your definition is of "reasonable straight drive" ? And are we talking about a 200 yard reasonable straight or 300 yards reasonable straight. Or would you like to know the answer for your own ""reasonable straight drive" LETS SAY STARTING ON AIM LINE AND STAYING WITHIN 3 YARDS (ANY MOVEMENT IN AIR WOULD BE LEFT TO RIGHT) IF DISTANCE MAKES ANY DIFFERENCE TO THE ANSWER 275 YARDS

I don't mind helping, in fact I like to help. But please improve you questions.
IF THATS THE CASE IF YOU CAN PLEASE HELP AND I PROMISE TO GO ON A FORUM SPECIALISING IN ENGLISH
 

Brian Manzella

Administrator
Whoa.

Low Point can occur almost anywhere.

But it likely to occur between the point between the shoulders and just outside the left shoulder.

The Angle of Attack that is "Tour Average"—one of the few things I strive for in almost every lesson—is pretty simple up to the Driver:

5° down with a wedge, 4° down with a 7-iron, 3° down with a 3-wood.

But I prefer UPWARD with the driver for almost everyone, unless that golfer needs to hit down to solve a problem.
 
Whoa.


But I prefer UPWARD with the driver for almost everyone, unless that golfer needs to hit down to solve a problem.

Do you prefer to see if the golfer can hit up by merely moving the ball forward and having them aim a little right to compensate? Or is it a adjustment with setup, such as additional axis tilt?
 

footwedge

New member
Whoa.

Low Point can occur almost anywhere.

But it likely to occur between the point between the shoulders and just outside the left shoulder.

The Angle of Attack that is "Tour Average"—one of the few things I strive for in almost every lesson—is pretty simple up to the Driver:

5° down with a wedge, 4° down with a 7-iron, 3° down with a 3-wood.

But I prefer UPWARD with the driver for almost everyone, unless that golfer needs to hit down to solve a problem.



Is the 3 wood on the ground or on a tee for the 3* down? or does it matter?
 

Brian Manzella

Administrator
Would that 3 down not generate a to big a gap (distance) between driver and 3-wood?

Hard to hit the 3-wood off the deck with less down.

Not too big of a gap, but.....if you are going to have a gap, that's not a bad place.

Is the 3 wood on the ground or on a tee for the 3* down? or does it matter?

Off of a tee, the 3-wood can be hit multiple ways, about level being average with good players.
 
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