Hi everyone, Jim from Wilmington NC here. Just purchased NSA 2.0 and loved it! Quick background on me I joined a club 2 years ago, head pro had me get my left shoulder way down (shoulder tilt) which just made my swing steeper. So I tried Jim Hardy's 1PS thinking I need to swing more "around my body." Anyway, to make a long story short, simply focusing on a better pivot/impact has gotten me down to a 6.6 index. Then I found Brian on uTube and bam...he talks about everything I now KNOW to be true....neutral grip, pull down with the left arm and hit the heck out if it with my right hand by lagging the sweet spot. Talked with Brian on the phone today and can't wait to get started working with him via email/video/paypal. The only problem is I videoed my swing today and a few of my mistakes are VERY obvious. Any suggestions on how to get the club more up the plane line on the takeaway? Even with the clubface "looking at the ball" more I still get overactive with my hands and arms on the takeway (too inside). This leads to overswinging my arms across the line at the top.....ugh..I can't believe I shot an 80 today saving it with athletic ability alone just before impact.
New user - just purchased NSA 2.0 Need help please
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Bronco Billy
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Jim,
I have a few suggestions:
1. Get two mini-Mag lights and tape them together end to end. Facing a wall, set up the approximate distance from the wall that you would with the club of your choice. Grip the shaft of the lights like you would a club. With both lights on, point the beam at the base of a wall. Make a slow practice swing and make sure that the beam is always pointed at the base of the wall unless the "club/lights" are parallel to the ground. This works for both the backswing and the forward swing. The idea is that whichever end of the "club" is closest to the ground should point to the base of the clubshaft plane. You can do the same thing with a club outdoors. Plug a tee or some other small item in the hole at the end of the grip. Take your normal grip and make a swing. Again make sure that the tee or other item points to the base of the clubshaft plane unless the clubshaft is parallel to the ground.
2. Set up with the toe of a club lightly touching some item with a straight face such as a box or couch or rolled up towel or anything similar. In slow motion take the club straight back from the ball while making your shoulder turn. Notice how much the club head goes "inside" even though you think you are swinging straight back. I think you will quickly see that even while making what feels like a very upright swing the club still goes plenty to the inside.
3. Making slow practice swings, always keep your hands "inside" the clubhead all the way to waist high. At waist high the hands can be even with the clubhead, but never let the clubhead get way behind the hands.
4. Set up to an imaginary ball. Imagine that the ball is sitting at 6 o'clock on a clock face. To the right is 7 o'clock, 8 o'clock, etc. The 9 o'clock position will be waist high. Swing the club to the 8'o'clock position. The clubhead and shaft will be pointing at the 8 o'clock position. Make sure the hands are inside the clubhead at that position.
5. Use Brian's towel plane drill. You will have to search the site for this as I don't have it right now.
Best regards.
I have a few suggestions:
1. Get two mini-Mag lights and tape them together end to end. Facing a wall, set up the approximate distance from the wall that you would with the club of your choice. Grip the shaft of the lights like you would a club. With both lights on, point the beam at the base of a wall. Make a slow practice swing and make sure that the beam is always pointed at the base of the wall unless the "club/lights" are parallel to the ground. This works for both the backswing and the forward swing. The idea is that whichever end of the "club" is closest to the ground should point to the base of the clubshaft plane. You can do the same thing with a club outdoors. Plug a tee or some other small item in the hole at the end of the grip. Take your normal grip and make a swing. Again make sure that the tee or other item points to the base of the clubshaft plane unless the clubshaft is parallel to the ground.
2. Set up with the toe of a club lightly touching some item with a straight face such as a box or couch or rolled up towel or anything similar. In slow motion take the club straight back from the ball while making your shoulder turn. Notice how much the club head goes "inside" even though you think you are swinging straight back. I think you will quickly see that even while making what feels like a very upright swing the club still goes plenty to the inside.
3. Making slow practice swings, always keep your hands "inside" the clubhead all the way to waist high. At waist high the hands can be even with the clubhead, but never let the clubhead get way behind the hands.
4. Set up to an imaginary ball. Imagine that the ball is sitting at 6 o'clock on a clock face. To the right is 7 o'clock, 8 o'clock, etc. The 9 o'clock position will be waist high. Swing the club to the 8'o'clock position. The clubhead and shaft will be pointing at the 8 o'clock position. Make sure the hands are inside the clubhead at that position.
5. Use Brian's towel plane drill. You will have to search the site for this as I don't have it right now.
Best regards.
answers in video
ok, well I watched NSA 2.0 again and hit the range with my video camera; sure enough all the answers (for me) were in NSA. In my case, bend the right wrist to start the takeaway and the club works up nicely on plane. In addition, (yes I was wrong) I wasn't applying enough twistaway. I gotta be honest I just love this NSA pattern, its pretty shut at the top but I can still go after it as hard as I want with absolutely no fear of hooking it left...effectively eliminating the left hand side - great feeling
ok, well I watched NSA 2.0 again and hit the range with my video camera; sure enough all the answers (for me) were in NSA. In my case, bend the right wrist to start the takeaway and the club works up nicely on plane. In addition, (yes I was wrong) I wasn't applying enough twistaway. I gotta be honest I just love this NSA pattern, its pretty shut at the top but I can still go after it as hard as I want with absolutely no fear of hooking it left...effectively eliminating the left hand side - great feeling
Bronco Billy
New member
Brian Manzella
Administrator
YIKES!!!!!
OFFICIAL BRIAN MANZELLA STATEMENT!!
I do not teach everyone to "trace" a straight plane line on the backswing and the downswing!!!
Even on the Basic 5 Manzella Matrix Patterns.
I would endorse practicing "laser tracing" from RELEASE POINT to the finish swivel—just so you can have it in "your toolbox" of ideas.
OFFICIAL BRIAN MANZELLA STATEMENT!!
I do not teach everyone to "trace" a straight plane line on the backswing and the downswing!!!
Even on the Basic 5 Manzella Matrix Patterns.
I would endorse practicing "laser tracing" from RELEASE POINT to the finish swivel—just so you can have it in "your toolbox" of ideas.
Brian Manzella
Administrator
Yippee!!! I Got One Right....I Bettcha Brian Says were Both Full of It..... Twistaway is the Way to Go.... Mac O'Grady uses it and He's Got Two Brains.....
Ps. It's NOT Pretty Shut at the Top.... It's Pretty Less Open......
You got it right.
You are only slightly full of it.
Straight plane line
I definitely don't trace a straight plane line on the backswing. I have to take the club up way away or outside the target line/plane line on the backswing in order to make the Turned Shoulder Plane at the top/end. So, just as Brian just posted - not necessary on the backswing.
I have 2 lights taped to a 1/2' dowel (one on each end, 5 iron length). Even with this contraption, I end up too flat on the backswing if I trace a straight plane line starting the backswing.
Must be some physical or genetic defect.
If their was a wall along the target line (NHA), my wall would be full of holes!
Thanks again Jim for that piece of instruction. Still feels really weird, though.
I definitely don't trace a straight plane line on the backswing. I have to take the club up way away or outside the target line/plane line on the backswing in order to make the Turned Shoulder Plane at the top/end. So, just as Brian just posted - not necessary on the backswing.
I have 2 lights taped to a 1/2' dowel (one on each end, 5 iron length). Even with this contraption, I end up too flat on the backswing if I trace a straight plane line starting the backswing.
Must be some physical or genetic defect.
If their was a wall along the target line (NHA), my wall would be full of holes!
Thanks again Jim for that piece of instruction. Still feels really weird, though.
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