Non-existent divots and wrist condition

[WoodbridgeGolf37]

For as long as I can remember, I've had trouble making proper ball-divot contact - with the toe of the club "scraping" through the grass.
I've gotten some great advice from various B-Manz vids and the members on this site regarding the proper pivot - which has virtually eliminated my other problem, the extreme lefts.

Even with this forum and the great vids - I can't seem to shake this thin/toe contact. I've posted before about soling the toe of the club first- and was diagnosed with a "fit-in" move or high impact hands. I'm hitting bombs with my driver, but have zero confidence that I will hit my irons with any consistency - really putrid.

I've always tried to sole the club flush at address - but noticed tonight at the range that when I lowered my hands at address (feeling as though the toe was in the air) the marks from the range mats seemed more uniform across the sole and the impact felt much crisper. I own the "10 Things" video and understand the various conditions of the wrist...but have begun to think that I may have always had a slight case of wrist "cocked down" when I set-up

Would this account for the toe coming in to impact first - even if the club is soled properly at address?

Does anyone have pictures of proper angle/condition of the left wrist at address from the player's point of view?

 

[Chip Putterman]

A properly fit club WILL be slightly "toe up" at address. When you swing it at 80-100+ MPH the centrifical force will square it at impact. Try this test: pour a bottle of water onto the mat a take several swings. The line of demarcation created on the clubface should be straight across the face (even with the lines).
At address your left wrist will be bent and your right wrist will be flat.
At impact your left wrist will be flat and your right wrist will be bent.

 

[cmartingolf]

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YyB1efobZZA[/media]

Take a bunch of swings while trying to rotate and dig the heel of the club through the dirt around the impact area.

Search: Left Arm Flying Wedge. You'll get a bunch of hits.

 

[WoodbridgeGolf37]

Wrist Condition at Set-up

Since watching 10 Things and COFF, I've been particularly mindful of maintaining the proper "lateral wrist conditions":

- bent left wrist and straight right wrist at address
- straight left wrist and bent right wrist at impact

...but I have believe I have utilized incorrect "vertical" condition and have had my left wrist cocked down (thumb further from the forearm).

The resulting position: shaft angle the same as the left forearm. Could this be the cause of my woes?

 

[Kevin Shields]

You can definately get some more downward hit from the left wrist uncocking past level. Arch wrist at address players tend to have shallow divots... generally.

 

[WoodbridgeGolf37]

Left Arm Flying Wedge and "Lifting"

I've been doing a lot of digging through the archives regarding the left arm flying wedge - per a suggestion. Most of the information seems related to the backswing.

So I decided to watch an older swing vid and discovered that I tend to OVER-rotate the left forearm on the backswing and subsequently "lift my arms" to the top with a cupped left wrist.

Does over-rotation of the left arm flying wedge cause this "lifting" action?

I also found a post from Brian indicating that keeping the "belly side" of your right forearm pointed towards the ground will help to keep the backswing from getting too flat.

I think I have a lot to work on.

 

[rogerdodger]

Depends on when you over rotate the left arm flying wedge. It can happen anywhere in the backswing from my own experience. Mine does it at the halfway back area and also can do it at the transition. I also find it hard to take a divot. It makes sense, when you over rotate the left arm, taking a divot is near impossible. Over rotate deliberately halfway back, finish the backswing and then drive the right shoulder downplane. If you can even touch the club in the ground from that position you are lucky. Don't neglect never slice again 2.0, it really helped with driving the right shoulder and minimizing rotation of the left forearm.