tongzilla
New
The lighter wallet is a real difference.
Non Stock Shafts
- Thread starter JimR
- Start date
- Status
Burner
New
It's really only an "upgraded" shaft if the club's performance is improved. A more expensive shaft doesn't guarantee improved performance.
You really can't ensure anything if you can't compare one club to another. If you want to buy a new club but can't get to a range or simulator to test it, wait until you can. Don't plunk down $300+ for a club if you can't give yourself some degree of certainty that it's a good fit. You're begging for buyer's remorse if you make that kind of investment without educating yourself on as many of the available options as you can.
Most of the claims about 15-20 yards longer related to golf merchandising are bogus, and some are not.
The first time I played a Pro-v1 or v1x, I was instantly 7-12 yards longer (just guessing at the range here) than before. A friend I play with who is a very good golfer told me the same thing - as he said, he'd never bought a product before that translated so immediately into more distance.
The first time I hit my Tour Edge Exotics fairway wood I was at least 10 yards longer than I had been before with my fairway woods. Probably a combination of face, shaft and spin numbers. Maybe I just got lucky.
I tried a lot of drivers with mixed success. I finally went for a fitting with just a decent (not really good and certainly not great) fitting place. I was amazed to see how high my spin numbers were with the driver, and I ended up with a driver head and shaft I would have NEVER have picked from just reading. I definitely hook the ball less now and probably added 5-7 yards on my driver. I have no doubt that a good fitting can help you find a driver/shaft combo that helps you hit the ball straighter and further and perhaps the further you hit it, the more that matters.
How much further and straighter no doubt depends on many variables. But generally, unless you know a lot about your swing (speed, spin, etc) that your odds of improving just based on picking some new shaft just from reading about it probably isn't that great. Paying more for a shaft doesn't mean that it fits you better.
And everyone knows people who just love to buy new clubs and has horrific swing problems. Money would no doubt be better spent on good lessons.
The first time I played a Pro-v1 or v1x, I was instantly 7-12 yards longer (just guessing at the range here) than before. A friend I play with who is a very good golfer told me the same thing - as he said, he'd never bought a product before that translated so immediately into more distance.
The first time I hit my Tour Edge Exotics fairway wood I was at least 10 yards longer than I had been before with my fairway woods. Probably a combination of face, shaft and spin numbers. Maybe I just got lucky.
I tried a lot of drivers with mixed success. I finally went for a fitting with just a decent (not really good and certainly not great) fitting place. I was amazed to see how high my spin numbers were with the driver, and I ended up with a driver head and shaft I would have NEVER have picked from just reading. I definitely hook the ball less now and probably added 5-7 yards on my driver. I have no doubt that a good fitting can help you find a driver/shaft combo that helps you hit the ball straighter and further and perhaps the further you hit it, the more that matters.
How much further and straighter no doubt depends on many variables. But generally, unless you know a lot about your swing (speed, spin, etc) that your odds of improving just based on picking some new shaft just from reading about it probably isn't that great. Paying more for a shaft doesn't mean that it fits you better.
And everyone knows people who just love to buy new clubs and has horrific swing problems. Money would no doubt be better spent on good lessons.
Driver wise, a shaft change can make a HUGE difference IF you have a fast swing speed, really aggressive transition, or you create a lot of spin (though I think swing speed and spin have a lot to do with one another.) But that HUGE difference is only HUGE ***if *** you make good contact.
On a similar topic, there are no shafts or drivers that stop slices or hooks or pulls or any similar problems. They can enhance or slightly decrease the effects of the above mentioned issues but they won't fix them... Sadly I've tried and a lot of money later - they didn't make a big difference. OOB is OOB no matter if you're in the edge of the lake or the middle...
On a similar topic, there are no shafts or drivers that stop slices or hooks or pulls or any similar problems. They can enhance or slightly decrease the effects of the above mentioned issues but they won't fix them... Sadly I've tried and a lot of money later - they didn't make a big difference. OOB is OOB no matter if you're in the edge of the lake or the middle...
Agree except you CAN find a driver that will turn your draw/slight draw (like I hit) into a bigger hook (no doubt you could learn to adjust to the club) I even found a club, a Tour Edge driver with an open face and a very stiff shaft that turned my standard shot into a screaming low (and my shots are fairly high) "cut" (some might of called it a "slice," a shot I haven't hit since grade school).
Have you ever wondered why it says "exclusively for Titleist" on the shaft? It ain't cuz they customised the shaft so it performs better with the Titleist head.
Actually, I thought this WAS the case, at least that's what I was told on a couple of occasions when going thru driver fittings. Seems the Titleist's bore-thru head designs (975D, 983K, JVS, 905R) would tend to "stiffen up" the characteristics of the shaft and the "made exclusively for Titleist" shafts accounted for that. For example, if you were to install an "off-the-shelf" Graffaloy 35"S", it would end up being closer to an "X" once assembled, whereas a "made for Titleist" Graffaloy 35 "S" truly was an "S".
That's what I heard. Could just be more marketing hype.
Robbo
Actually, I thought this WAS the case, at least that's what I was told on a couple of occasions when going thru driver fittings. Seems the Titleist's bore-thru head designs (975D, 983K, JVS, 905R) would tend to "stiffen up" the characteristics of the shaft and the "made exclusively for Titleist" shafts accounted for that. For example, if you were to install an "off-the-shelf" Graffaloy 35"S", it would end up being closer to an "X" once assembled, whereas a "made for Titleist" Graffaloy 35 "S" truly was an "S".
That's what I heard. Could just be more marketing hype.
Robbo
The measurement from the bottom of the bore to the ground does effect shaft stiffness. The closer the tip of the shaft is to the ground the stiffer the shaft will play.
Jim Kobylinski
Super Moderator
Bore-through vs. non bore-through adds about 1/2 a flex, not a full flex. And while the "exclusive made for titleist shafts" did account for that, the majority of the "exclusivity" was to give the impression of this awesome shaft made for just them even though they are "water-downed" versions of the real shafts.
And rightfully so imo, better players who can swing 100mph or more are not the normal golfing public and many of those people coudn't handle the low torque, stiff shafts a lot of better players use.
And rightfully so imo, better players who can swing 100mph or more are not the normal golfing public and many of those people coudn't handle the low torque, stiff shafts a lot of better players use.
A half-flex is probably about right. Unfortunately I had a situation where I bought a 983K that had a Fuji "X" in it (NOT the "made for Titleist" version). I can and have played "X" shafts, but add another half a flex of stiffness and I'm starting to get out of my league which was the case with this driver. I liked lots of things about it, but my "numbers" weren't as good as they could have been simply to being too stiff for my swing to handle.
My point.... there was "something" to the made exclusively for Titleist label. If you're good enough to discern an "R" from an "S" from an "X", you best be aware of it, or buy a driver that doesn't feel/perform like you think it should.
Robbo
tongzilla
New
The cost for Fujiukura to make their Speeder shaft for Titleist is significantly lower than the cost for them to make their own "identical" Speeder shaft. Why? There are various reasons, from tighter tolerances to inferior materials.Actually, I thought this WAS the case, at least that's what I was told on a couple of occasions when going thru driver fittings. Seems the Titleist's bore-thru head designs (975D, 983K, JVS, 905R) would tend to "stiffen up" the characteristics of the shaft and the "made exclusively for Titleist" shafts accounted for that. For example, if you were to install an "off-the-shelf" Graffaloy 35"S", it would end up being closer to an "X" once assembled, whereas a "made for Titleist" Graffaloy 35 "S" truly was an "S".
That's what I heard. Could just be more marketing hype.
Robbo
matt kluck
New
Iron Shafts
The Project X isn't what it used to be so, for the few players that will receive benefits from its' characteristics there are now better alternatives made with new machinery with tighter tolerances. The KB Tour shaft comes in different flexes and gram weights. They offer 110g, 120g and 130g and perform like the Rifle used to ranging from 4.5 to 7.5 in flexion depending upon gram weight selection. They have a lightweight shaft that I believe is called the KBS 90 which is a 95 gram shaft and can fit the slower swings. The shaft is uniformly round which I consider huge in swinging a club with consistent results. They offer taper and paralell and they leave enough shaft to customize fit and flex. 1 iron shaft starts at 41 inches. I hope this helps those of you seeking the best. As far as driver shafts are concerned, it is a crap shoot as to whether you are getting what you specify. Good luck!
MK
P.S. I do not receive any benefits from this statement.
The Project X isn't what it used to be so, for the few players that will receive benefits from its' characteristics there are now better alternatives made with new machinery with tighter tolerances. The KB Tour shaft comes in different flexes and gram weights. They offer 110g, 120g and 130g and perform like the Rifle used to ranging from 4.5 to 7.5 in flexion depending upon gram weight selection. They have a lightweight shaft that I believe is called the KBS 90 which is a 95 gram shaft and can fit the slower swings. The shaft is uniformly round which I consider huge in swinging a club with consistent results. They offer taper and paralell and they leave enough shaft to customize fit and flex. 1 iron shaft starts at 41 inches. I hope this helps those of you seeking the best. As far as driver shafts are concerned, it is a crap shoot as to whether you are getting what you specify. Good luck!
MK
P.S. I do not receive any benefits from this statement.
matt kluck
New
P.S. To Iron Shafts
"Stronger shafts create stronger swings"!
"Stronger shafts create stronger swings"!
birdie_man
New
7-12 longer than balata, right?
I think Brian was pretty impressed by these woods too. He wrote about it a while back I think.
Agreed!
Optimum spin is very important.
That's not groundbreaking.....but it really is important.
- Status