Wanna fade...

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.....but not a slice. Any suggestions? Yesterday I used my driver on every hole (except par 3's) and hit a mixture of shots. A few draws...a few straights....a few fades....and one slice that I could tell the club opened up on the top of my backswing. Hit the ball well (for me) around 260-280. Came 5 yards from the longest drive in a best shot. The past few years I've hit mostly right to left shots but for some reason I prefer the look and control of a fade. I worked hard to get rid of my slice but would like my standard shot to be a fade. I have every video Brian has offered, any suggestions??

Thanks
 
woodsinize your swing

You can try and weaken your grip slightly or open your stance a little bit.

sounds a bit like Woods' new swing except with both,,, then throw in a more upright stance, quicker hinge, and a little more up than in...

you've got yourself the eye of the tiger...
 
"and a little more up than in"

-that's funny because I believe this is the reason I played so well yesterday. Otherwise I have a very flat backswing and too in to out going down. Right now I'm looking at between 2 1/2 to 3 knuckles. Going weaker doesn't feel right when still trying to keep my heel pad on top of the club. Wonder if this is due to having smaller hands??
 

Jim Kobylinski

Super Moderator
Hogwash...it's just clubface control.

You want the clubFACE to be OPEN at SEPARATION. So instead of coming into impact with a 1-2* open face to allow for the squaring of the clubface you need to make it be 3-4* open so that it's still 1* open at SEPARATION.

Make sense? That's the first thing you have to understand, more open at impact so that it's more open at separation.
 
What shafts are you using?

In an bid to get my old fade back I recently ditched my 'reg' shafts, and returned to using stiff. In the last 3 rounds I've only lost one iron shot badly left, while with reg shafts it was always 3 or 4 per round. I'm using a heavier swingweight now, too. Nothing lighter than D4.
 
In an bid to get my old fade back I recently ditched my 'reg' shafts, and returned to using stiff. In the last 3 rounds I've only lost one iron shot badly left, while with reg shafts it was always 3 or 4 per round. I'm using a heavier swingweight now, too. Nothing lighter than D4.


Stiff....but could almost go reg if I wanted to.
 
The way I am learning to fade is....

Aim a little left and angle hinge. When I want to draw, I aim a liittle right and horizontal hinge. It was working well for me before I screwed my elbow up.
 
Aim a little left and angle hinge. When I want to draw, I aim a liittle right and horizontal hinge. It was working well for me before I screwed my elbow up.

Isn't it hard to change your hinging on full swings? I change a little on short shots but would think I would be all over the place with driver...
 

Jim Kobylinski

Super Moderator
How do you teach a fade? Open your stance a bit?

THanks again

I open my stance a bit and leave the clubface facing the target. This opens the face from the PLANE LINE. So as long as i swing on that new ROTATED plane line i will be hitting the ball with a "too open" clubface to create a fade shot on that rotated plane line.

So it should start between where i'm aiming and where the face is aiming and curve BACK towards where the face is aiming. I do all of this WITH A FULL ROLL.
 
I open my stance a bit and leave the clubface facing the target. This opens the face from the PLANE LINE. So as long as i swing on that new ROTATED plane line i will be hitting the ball with a "too open" clubface to create a fade shot on that rotated plane line.

So it should start between where i'm aiming and where the face is aiming and curve BACK towards where the face is aiming. I do all of this WITH A FULL ROLL.

Would you do the opposite when playing a draw?

I call this the "Ben Doyle way"...
 

Jim Kobylinski

Super Moderator
Why not learn a pattern that is more likely to produce a fade? I really find little use for moving the ball both ways.

I like to try and teach patterns that produce a fairly straight ball, maybe moves left or right a few yards. Students of mine who are better ballstrikers tend to hit the ball rather straight.

Once you learn that pattern as i teach it, moving it EITHER WAY is really effortless. Then i feel if the student wants to move their swing to more a fade pattern or a draw pattern it's really more of a setup change rather than a "pattern" change.
 
I open my stance a bit and leave the clubface facing the target. This opens the face from the PLANE LINE. So as long as i swing on that new ROTATED plane line i will be hitting the ball with a "too open" clubface to create a fade shot on that rotated plane line.

So it should start between where i'm aiming and where the face is aiming and curve BACK towards where the face is aiming. I do all of this WITH A FULL ROLL.


Jim, sort of a basic question but when you open your stance are you just dropping your left foot back or are both feet aimed left? Hope that makes sense. Thanks
 

Brian Manzella

Administrator
The "Ben Way"??? ...The "Brian Way???"

Hit a draw by Ben Doyle:

Aim at C, turn the clubface closed at address —without changing your grip—until it poists toward B. Swing to C. Ball starts a C and draws to B.
Hit a fade by Ben Doyle:

Aim at A, turn the clubface OPEN at address —without changing your grip—until it poists toward B. Swing to A. Ball starts a A and fades to B.​


...............................................................................................

Hit a Draw by TGM Book literalists:

Aim at C, turn the clubface closed at address in your grip—until it poists toward B. Swing to C. Ball starts a C and draws to B.


Hit a fade by TGM Book literalists:

Aim at A, turn the clubface OPEN at address in your grip—until it poists toward B. Swing to A. Ball starts a A and fades to B.​

...............................................................................................

Hit a Draw by Brian Manzella:

Aim at D, Swing to D. Turn clubface closed so that it points at C at separation. Ball starts a C and draws to B.


Hit a fade by Brian Manzella:

Aim one "LETTER" left of A, Swing to one "LETTER" left of A. Turn clubface open so that it points at A at separation. Ball starts a A and fades to B.
 

bts

New
Open the clubface and the stance

.....but not a slice. Any suggestions? Yesterday I used my driver on every hole (except par 3's) and hit a mixture of shots. A few draws...a few straights....a few fades....and one slice that I could tell the club opened up on the top of my backswing. Hit the ball well (for me) around 260-280. Came 5 yards from the longest drive in a best shot. The past few years I've hit mostly right to left shots but for some reason I prefer the look and control of a fade. I worked hard to get rid of my slice but would like my standard shot to be a fade. I have every video Brian has offered, any suggestions??

Thanks
One way is to adjust the clubface or grip till the ball curving and then adjust the stance to land it to the target.
 
Hit a draw by Ben Doyle:

Aim at C, turn the clubface closed at address —without changing your grip—until it poists toward B. Swing to C. Ball starts a C and draws to B.
Hit a fade by Ben Doyle:

Aim at A, turn the clubface OPEN at address —without changing your grip—until it poists toward B. Swing to A. Ball starts a A and fades to B.​



...............................................................................................

Hit a Draw by Brian Manzella:

Aim at D, Swing to D. Turn clubface closed so that it points at C at separation. Ball starts a C and draws to B.


Hit a fade by Brian Manzella:

Aim one "LETTER" left of A, Swing to one "LETTER" left of A. Turn clubface open so that it points at A at separation. Ball starts a A and fades to B.

Brian, I don't get it. Seems like Ben's way is simpler. What's the motive behind you tweak?
 
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