Wedges: Mechanics or Feel?

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What do you guys do? Right now I'm all feel and it's not working the best. The past few days I've hit a wide variety of shots. I've hit beautiful lob wedges from 50 yards that end up tap ins, or I'll hit a shot that lands on the back and rolls off the green. Normally the contact is good but it's the distance that's killing me.

I'm thinking I need to start working the "clock system" and then from there I can switch to a more "feel" game. I'm thinking the "clock system" will give me a good base. What do you guys do?

I've also thought about going to the range to work on yardages for each club/swing. But I'm concerned with how range balls will react differently to a "normal" ball. Do you think there would be much of a difference?
 

Jim Kobylinski

Super Moderator
What do you guys do? Right now I'm all feel and it's not working the best. The past few days I've hit a wide variety of shots. I've hit beautiful lob wedges from 50 yards that end up tap ins, or I'll hit a shot that lands on the back and rolls off the green. Normally the contact is good but it's the distance that's killing me.

I'm thinking I need to start working the "clock system" and then from there I can switch to a more "feel" game. I'm thinking the "clock system" will give me a good base. What do you guys do?

I've also thought about going to the range to work on yardages for each club/swing. But I'm concerned with how range balls will react differently to a "normal" ball. Do you think there would be much of a difference?

Yes, bring a shag bag of balls and just practice your yardages.
 
mechanics or feel?
that's an easy one.

it's both lol.
you gotta make a decision to "use" the mechanics you got when you go get your yardages. after that, the clock system is a great starting point. it gave me a lot of confidence to know an 11 o'clock p wedge flew 110, an 11 o'clock g wedge 100, a 9 0'clock s wedge 60, etc.

you can work from there...i.e., opening the face a little bit, add 2 mins to a 9 o'clock sand wedge, etc.
 
I would use golf balls that you would normally play during your rounds. What I did was hit around 10-15 at various distances and swings. Then I wrote down the average on a card, laminated it and keep it with me when I play.
 
I was hoping range balls would work. I just hate the thought of "ruining" 6-12 brand new balls. Such an expensive sport! :(
 
I was hoping range balls would work. I just hate the thought of "ruining" 6-12 brand new balls. Such an expensive sport! :(

One of the best investments you can make is a shag bag filled with 6 or 8 dozen of the brand/type golf balls that you normally play on the course. Especially valuable in learning how your wedges perform with different swings at different distances.
 
IMO, you need solid mechanics to best take advantage of feel. It's not an either or decision. Feel only is synonymous with streaking play. There needs to be a mechanical base/understanding to rely on as your feel fluctuates. Take Faldo in his prime. He was as polished mechanically as any of his peers, and one of the best distance wedges players playing. However, he considered himself a "feel player". He said being so technically sharp allowed him to be a consistent feel player.

He also used the "clock system" you mentioned. Saying that you have to learn the positions the know the yardages, BUT you have to feel the distances while you play.

Forget range balls when learning your distances. Measure with what you'll use on the course.
 
I like to focus on the length of the finish to hit shorter shots certain distances. I remember Tiger explaining that's what he does. Instead of the clock system, he'll finish at his ribs for one distance, at his shoulders for another, and so on.

Since I'm using the SD pattern, I use the drills/concepts as part of this. I'll hit a "toss" for one distance, a "one last point" for another, and then I also have a full swing. I can also choke down a little for each of those and get three more distances. So that's six possible yardages with each club.

Another nice thing about doing it this way is that when I'm working on these shots, I'm working on my long game too.
 
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I was hoping range balls would work. I just hate the thought of "ruining" 6-12 brand new balls. Such an expensive sport! :(

Use balls that you've chewed up and won't play. Also, if you can, dig around a little bit when you play. I'm always surprised at how many premium balls I find just walking along the edge of a hazard.
 
Use balls that you've chewed up and won't play. Also, if you can, dig around a little bit when you play. I'm always surprised at how many premium balls I find just walking along the edge of a hazard.

you can also buy x outs to practice with
 

Jim Kobylinski

Super Moderator
The yes was to shag bag of the balls u currently play; doesn't have to be expensive just keep the balls you aren't going to put in play anymore.
 
curtis

i think what jim was saying was to bring your own shag bag

the "yes" was in answer to the question...is there a difference

between normal and range balls

h
 
I like to focus on the length of the finish to hit shorter shots certain distances. I remember Tiger explaining that's what he does. Instead of the clock system, he'll finish at his ribs for one distance, at his shoulders for another, and so on.

Since I'm using the SD pattern, I use the drills/concepts as part of this. I'll hit a "toss" for one distance, a "one last point" for another, and then I also have a full swing. I can also choke down a little for each of those and get three more distances. So that's six possible yardages with each club.

Another nice thing about doing it this way is that when I'm working on these shots, I'm working on my long game too.

Smart system!
 
Find out how far a full shot flies for each wedge, then find out how far a "half" shot flies. Any other yardages should be feel. Don't get too bogged down in making some exact backswing length; the speed with which you swing and the shaft lean at impact is more important, and not always determined by how long you swing back.
 

Ryan Smither

Super Moderator
With your shag balls, practice hitting (actually walk it off) 30/40/50/60 yard shots... unless you're content with having 15 footers all day long you better have some idea how far you're hitting wedge shots... I'm not a big "hands of the clock" person but you will develop something of that nature as you practice...

And then when you're on the course, walk off the distance of the wedge shot... more than anything you'll breed confidence
 
(actually walk it off) 30/40/50/60 yard shots...

Even better, I bought a measuring wheel, the only problem is that I'll have to convert ft to yds.

PS You make a good point though, I should learn to "walk it off" since I obviously can't use my "wheel" during a round.
 
Another day of hit and miss. I hit the most beautiful shot today, very high 60 yard lob wedge that stuck 6 inches from the pin. Probably my nicest wedge shot ever, other than some shorter ones that actually went in. BUT, I also went over the green a few times today as well. I REALLY need to go to the range.
 

Kevin Shields

Super Moderator
IMO, you need solid mechanics to best take advantage of feel. It's not an either or decision. Feel only is synonymous with streaking play. There needs to be a mechanical base/understanding to rely on as your feel fluctuates. Take Faldo in his prime. He was as polished mechanically as any of his peers, and one of the best distance wedges players playing. However, he considered himself a "feel player". He said being so technically sharp allowed him to be a consistent feel player.

He also used the "clock system" you mentioned. Saying that you have to learn the positions the know the yardages, BUT you have to feel the distances while you play.

Forget range balls when learning your distances. Measure with what you'll use on the course.

Good point about Faldo. Always a feel player, once he got his mechanics fully understood, it really helped him capitalize on feels.
 
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