What can you say about this swing from these #s?

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MoG's page says they have Trackman...

No good for fitting....?

Used Trackman, very smart people, very knowledgeable, great place as you can see they have been national fitters for a couple of company's.

Here is a company that fits thousands of people, could they be wrong in there approach? Could they be wrong in how the fit? They have and use the greatest technology in the world, does Richie (using you as an example) no more than a company that sells thousands of sets using the best equipment?
 
I did a Driver fitting there on Trackman. In my opinion, first class place. Seems to me that you should go back, and tell them about your concerns. Who knows maybe you are 6'6" with long legs, and short arms. Guaranteed that there are very large folks, think Michael Jordan, that need 1 " over.

Another question I would have is the swingweight issue. If you add even 1/2 " to standard clubhead weights, there are swingweight issues. You can compensate with lightweight steel shafts, but at 1 inch over unless lighter heads are used (unlikely), then you are swinging way up there in swingweight.
 
I did a Driver fitting there on Trackman. In my opinion, first class place. Seems to me that you should go back, and tell them about your concerns. Who knows maybe you are 6'6" with long legs, and short arms. Guaranteed that there are very large folks, think Michael Jordan, that need 1 " over.

Another question I would have is the swingweight issue. If you add even 1/2 " to standard clubhead weights, there are swingweight issues. You can compensate with lightweight steel shafts, but at 1 inch over unless lighter heads are used (unlikely), then you are swinging way up there in swingweight.

Agree, great place, I think you are right, I might have to go back and just talk to them. I am 6'4", short legs, long torso, wing span is just over my height.
 
I picked that one shot because it was best one I hit with the demo club I had brought in. I told him before I hit the main problem I was having was not being able to feel the club during the swing. I can scan all 4 shots but a couple of the shots are real bad so I don't think the averages mean anything. The rest of the 50 or so shots were based of a light weight stiff shaft and 2.5* upright and some where the fitter was telling me to hit a fade.

I think I will take your advice about the line test the next time I go to the range. So regular masking tape or duct tape and a Sharpie or similar marker will do fine?

Also regarding the lie board mark, does it being on the back half of the club instead of the towards the face side mean anything significant?

It's not the average that is of importance, it is the trend in the figurers, like was it clubspeed that keeped changing or face angle or path etc... That trend is important for the fitter to make his next selection for shaft and/or clubhead.

Yes, masking tape on the face and a line on the ball, please make sure that the ball is correctly placed. And maybe use that same tape to tape a coin to the end of the head changing swingweight will also help to see if it is indeed swingweight that you are missing.

An open face can (with all swing paths) generate a mark more towards the back of the face.
 
Who would've thought so much discussion over one swing of a 6 iron.

Sullie, any idea your action had so much interest?:)
 
Not a lot of tour types going super flat. Flat lies helped me aim my face a little bit better. Upright lies (unless you manipulate the face) tend to have the true path aiming left. Flatter lies "help" to get my club face face right of the target enough to hit a push-draw. I no longer hit that shape as a staple, I prefer straight. If I had a buck for every time I told people you should never try to hit it straight!
 
I've wondered about the sharpie test. Sounds good in theory, but I'm not sure how it would work out in practice.

I'm gaming irons just now that are 1* flat, which I like, but they came with a wedge that was 2* upright and I hated it (until it got knocked down 3*). So my thinking is that you're really trying to be accurate within pretty narrow bands - say 2, maybe 3 degrees.

So if you're going to use the Sharpie test - you're going to have to be pretty damn accurate in drawing your line and aligning your ball and measuring the marks on the clubface. Half a degree out in set up and half a degree in measuring add up to be quite significant if you're only comfortable with clubs in a 2* range.

To add to the problem, I'm guessing here that if you don't impact the ball with the clubface perfectly square, then your line on the ball is going to translate to a curve mark on your clubface. So, I'm not sure how you would disentangle the curve of an oblique strike from the slope of a mismatched lie.

I'd be curious to hear from people who have used this technique to fit handicap golfers. Maybe it's more useable than I imagine.

But until then, I'm going to stick to looking at my divots.

Just out of curiosity - does anyone have any feel for how a 1* mismatch in lie would manifest itself in a divot? I know flat lies are going to show up a divot that is longer on the toe side. But what sort of lie angle error is going to be required before the divot is, say half an inch, out of square?
 
Back when I was in college, I had irons that were +5* upright at one point. They told me I was tall and needed that. Would work for about 1 month and then it would get *worse.* While I’m 6’4” tall, it’s mostly all torso and wingspan. I only have a 29” inseam, which is unusually short for a guy my height. But they kept telling me that I needed these upright clubs.

I eventually was told I needed clubs less upright, about 1 or 2* because +5* is way too much. But in order to counter everything I was told to go to graphite shafts because I could add 1” in length to the shafts and then with the 2* upright, that would make them effectively +4* upright.

Again, good for about a month, went downhill BADLY afterward. Try keeping +1 inch shafts down in the wind…not easy. Try doing it with graphite…really freaking hard. But, I had that 7-iron over a redwood tree shot down =]

Like I said, from my experience…I’ve have NEVER seen a person go on a lie board and have it say they need flatter irons. Those lie boards almost exclusively say you need more upright lie angles. Everybody cannot be that way. So that’s why I find lie boards to be a waste of time.

Whatever somebody wants to do with their clubs, that’s their prerogative. I just want to warn people about *my* experience with this upright garbage.

Put it this way, at the time I was doing all of this upright stuff, I had developed relationships with a few current and former Tour players. Some of them as tall as me and what puzzled me was how nobody at that time had those super long shafts or very upright lie angles.

These days it’s a little different and I mean a *little* different. There are some guys with pretty upright clubs, but I would examine those guys first. One being Mickelson, +1” and 2* upright last I checked. He just did that about a little over a year ago and his swing is quite upright and his iron play was probably the worst it was as a pro last year. From my perspective, Phil’s issues have always been the driver accuracy and his putting inconsistency and he’s always been pretty good with the irons. He started hitting the irons a mile with those longer shafts, but he started missing shots he usually flagged. I think he got shafts more standard.

Dustin Johnson is another one. And he’s quite tall. I think he’s at +3* upright and is, by PGA Tour standards, a poor iron player.

I like Trackman a lot. But it’s far better at clubfitting drivers than it is irons. It doesn’t have to worry about lie angles as much with the driver and it can look at the launch, landing angle and spin and figure things out from there.

My suggestion is to either go with forged irons or cast irons that are made from 8620 steel. That way if you don’t like the lie angles down the road, a simple bend of the lie angle and you’ll be all set. The 8620 carbon steel is pretty soft and I’ve been told it bends really easy even if it’s cast.

Personally, I’ve got 12 sets of forged irons. My swing isn’t where I need it to be, but I think out of the irons I have, there are some iron heads that are good enough to be my gamers. So the question for me is when my swing ‘gets there’, what shafts and what lie angles will I need.

My plan is to just grab a 5-iron of the set off of eBay and try the shaft (which I’ll get from working with the Mizuno Shaft Optimizer) and the lie angle I think will work for me. If it works out great, then I’ve got the club I want. If not, then I’m out $30 for a shaft install. Beats paying $900+ for a set that you want changed in a year or less.





3JACK
 
Here's a really crazy idea:

Try clubs and take the ones which work and feel best!!!:eek:

By all means use a LM and anything else that's available. But don't listen to guys who tell you cos your tall you need upright and longer clubs.

A friend of mine, height 2m 13cm = 7 foot tall, has 5" longer and also a few degrees upright (don't know how many degrees). He was fitted by Ping in their own fitting centre. He came to me and said he's hitting it short as hell, could I help him. He was releasing so early in the downswing it was crazy and his KC was totally messed up. Any wonder, given taht the swingweight was off the scale. OK, he's a big guy, strong as well, ex pro basketball player, great feel and coordination. But ho-one can make a good golf swing with clubs that heavy. Just my 2 eurocents about fitting centres.
 
Like I said, from my experience…I’ve have NEVER seen a person go on a lie board and have it say they need flatter irons. 3JACK

I have been measured on lie boards on 3 different occasions over a period of 10 years and I have been consistently told that my irons need to be made 2-2.5 degrees flat; I am 5ft 7.
 
@Richie3Jack - you've had whole sets of irons 5* upright and 7* flat?

Most players won't have that much variation in lie angle across their set from driver to wedge.

What the hell - you'd skin me on the course, so who am I to criticise?

But would you say that you're perhaps a little inclined towards extremes? Or just exceptionally thorough in your groundwork?;)
 
sullie, there are load of demo days these days where you can try load of different specs for free. And I think that most manufacturers offer the service on site as well, usually free of for a minimal fee.

I read in your language that you probably come form the same island as me;) and if you're in the South-East you're at the heart of where most of the companies have their HQs.

What I meant was yes, by all means use all the info and facilities available, but at the end of the day the clubs which feel best and work best are probably best. Even if your fitter tells you something else.
 
@Richie3Jack - you've had whole sets of irons 5* upright and 7* flat?

Most players won't have that much variation in lie angle across their set from driver to wedge.

What the hell - you'd skin me on the course, so who am I to criticise?

But would you say that you're perhaps a little inclined towards extremes? Or just exceptionally thorough in your groundwork?;)

One thing is for sure...I don't think ANYBODY can say that they have gone thru that wide range of lie angles like I have. So I've tried it all with that regard.

The upright lie angles (+5*) was something I was told by the clubfitter to do. I was 18 years old, clubfitting back in the 90's was pretty primitive and I didn't know any better.

The flat lie angles (6-7* flat) was more of an experiment than anything and the experiment taught me some things. I think before then I was playing clubs about +2 to +3* upright. And I was able to go to 7* flat and actually hit it MORE flush more often because I could make the proper adjustment and had an idea of how to do it.

Now I'm pretty much standard. Probably about 1* flat by today's standards. Titleist's irons are very upright, so I'm about 2* flat compared to their 'standard specs.'

And right now I'm hitting it as flush as I ever have. And I'm willing to bet if they put me on a lie board, it would read that I need clubs more upright.

It's hogwash.
 
I certainly suspect that the benefits of moving away from pretty standard specs are exaggerated for the majority of golfers.

Look at you - 6'4" and 1* flat.

Look at me - 5'9" and 1* flat.

I have a friend who is barely over 5' and she likes my irons - she just chokes up on them a teenie bit, probably no more than Sergio does, and hits them very well.
 

dbl

New
Well does Ping black dot, or something similar, fit like 80% of golfers? :D

I've had my suspicions that the answer is closer to yes, than no.
 
I will go ahead and post the entire demo swings in hopes that there is pattern to be seen.

Scan-110215-0001-1.jpg picture by sullie31 - Photobucket

Yes, There is a pattern. You started 92mph and ended 93.4mph, gaining more speed with every shot. During those 4 shots your angle of attack went down to -2.6 and went from inside-out to slightly outside in. All that in almost nice litle steps. :D

So why did that happen?, if those where really the first 4 balls hit with this club then maybe you where still adjusting and those shots mean nothing ?

Also nice to note that the main issue was the face angle, it was either almost square to the target or 3.5 degree's open.
 
UPS just dropped off one of my experiments. The Ping green dot (2.25 up) 6 iron. I knew it was a stiff shaft but not exactly which one and there is no shaft band. Maybe someone call help me identify it?

The first step starts at 6.5" (including hosel) and is 1", next step is 1.25, then 8 at 1.75 and then one more of 1.25 before the grip. It says "true temper finest quality" instead of dynamic gold.

I looked through the technical, identify a shaft page at true temper True Temper : The #1 Shaft in Golf but could not find a match. I'm guessing it's one of the Ping special models zz65 or JZ, AWT type deals?

If you contact Ping with the serial number, they'll tell you what shaft they put in the club originally and whether they've ever reshafted it. That won't mean that the club hasn't been reshafted by someone else, but it might give you a clue, especially if you think the club still has its original grip.
 
Hi Frans. Thanks for looking at those swings. As far as the speed I think I was still warming up. I had mentioned to the fitter that the main problem with the club I was swinging was I could not feel it very well during the swing. I was guessing it was a shaft problem because my old set I gave away had x100s and this was a s300. The second shot I am pretty sure was a little chunky based on the ball speed. Do think you these patterns could be the shaft being too loose and lagging behind leaving the face open through impact or kicking too early and affecting the path to the inside? I know in an ideal world I would have hit an extra stiff at that time to compare, but the fitter seemed set on getting me into a stiff. Kind of weird since True Temper website recommends x100 for 90-100 ss.

The website recommendation is only a pointer and should not be used to select a shaft. Swing transition, tempo and release are key items in selecting the correct shaft.

Not feeling the head during the swing has normally no relation with the shaft only with the swingweight (balance) seems to me that the balance for you might need to be a bit more towards the head. It was therefor my remark about using some tape and a coin to change the swingweight.

The pattern is wat is it, you trying to warm-up. I would not use those 4 shots for anything except a gross indication. I would have had you hit some more shots with that same club to see what your real swing looks like after the warming-up.
 
I've wondered about the sharpie test. Sounds good in theory, but I'm not sure how it would work out in practice.

Works very well, indoors I don't use a sharpie but a special ball.

The LIE board should be banned -it marks depend on swingpath face angle, people hate to hit down on the board and people hit the board before the ball making any reading incorrect. I even had people hitting the board thru the cage not the ball :eek:
 
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