Handle dragging "just when I thought I was out they drag me back in"

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Blue/violet--pronated on top, becomes even more pronated coming down (transition, layoff), then supinates to square at impact, after which pronates really fast relative to measuring equipment (stays square relative to body).

Either you completely misunderstand the information or the method used to acquire this information is completely invalid.

Joints motions are measured in relation to the body.

The pronation after impact would be due to impact conditions (one example would be a toe impact point), one of many reasons why you don't try to do what is happening.
 
The only difference between glat, bowed and cupped left wrist is the amount or lack of shaft lean relative to left wrist.

That statement is only true in a very narrow context.

Let's make up an example to demonstrate the point/context.

At impact, with the shaft and left arm vertical and the left wrist flat - then not moving your centers and just flexing and extending the wrist - your statement would be relevant.

Here's one of many examples outside of that narrow context - take the same impact location however let us have the left wrist not in that weak position but have a stronger left hand grip- so the palm is facing the ground. Now, lowering the shaft plane "cups" the left wrist more with no effect in shaft lean.

In summary - you can't assume clubshaft motion from that graph unless you know the manner in which that person is gripping the club
 
The difference is a weak, leakage hook.
Of course because uncocking and roll started earlier, and you have a fast rate of closure, like HK and BD. Brian Gay too.

Of course you could try to keep the left wrist flat, but IMO you'll end up with less clubhead speed though, because IMO you disrupted #3 (roll of the left wrist as delivery mechanism), which like any joint or hinge should be left alone...
 
If the left wrist bends, the clubhead backs up because the left arm and shaft seeks the inline condition - a Physics fact. See Cochran & Stobbs, Jurgensen, Dr David Williams science based golf books.

the left arm and clubshaft would only seek an in- line condition if you were pulling - the centers of mass would want to line up.
if you are not pulling through the left arm then the clubhead would just keep flying.
only a physics fact under the right conditions
 
The difference is a weak, leakage hook.
When the clubhead slows down with the left wrist cupped already, the slowing down isn't due to the cupping, its due to the RELEASE INTERVAL being completed already before impact.

However, if you're RELEASE INTERVAL is longer, and it can be tweaked mind you, cupped or extended left wrist just means the release happened earlier, but impact could still be well within the RELEASE INTERVAL.

So the shorter the RELEASE INTERVAL, the more the left wrist should be arched or bowed at impact to ensure the release starts later (not prematurely) and so that impact still within the RELEASE INTERVAL.

Tweaking one's setup, grip and top of backswing position is very important in getting the RELEASE INTERVAL as long as possible.

HK and BD have very short RELEASE INTERVALS (and too long radiuses for the ball); hence the need for active flat left wrist to delay release (and obtain shaft lean).
 

Brian Manzella

Administrator
It's pretty simple.....

You DO NOT want your left wrist—in the flexion/extension directions (arched/flat/bent)—to remain in ANY of those conditions for ANY amount of time down by impact.


Why?


Because the clubhead is at the end of the system and HOLDING or MAINTAINING any condition would slow the clubhead down......by definition!

Now, losing all of that clubhead speed, potential dent in the hula-hoop, and less effort might not be the greatest thing going, but what's worse is IF you do that HOLDING or MAINTAINING, the arm won't slow (can't slow)....that makes you an arm dragging, handle dragger that potentially might restrict things further up the chain to accomplish all of this silliness!


Turn that corner and FLICK that thing!



 
It's pretty simple.....

Turn that corner and FLICK that thing!

By "turn that corner" do you mean go from keeping your back to the target to "opening up"/getting the left shoulder back and away?

Does the flick mean all the angular force and torque go down to zero before going negative?

I've been reading some of Steven Nesbit's published work and am trying to understand this:

All the torque components pass through zero at or near impact resulting in maximum angular work just before impact.
 

Jared Willerson

Super Moderator
For those of us who spent years working on dragging, learning to un-drag is hard. It still creeps back in to my game and I haven't "tried" to drag the handle in 5 years.

I play my best when I flick it. I play bad when I try to control it by holding on and steering it.
 

Brian Manzella

Administrator
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Do you turn the corner with the shoulders?

If you haven't been on BManz's Facebook "page" recently, this is what he says there:

Simply getting the club to move "around the clock" rapidly in the in plane, or "Alpha" Rotation. How quickly or sharply you can "turn the corner" and go from the butt end of the club pointing toward he target and then away. AKA: "Switching Ends."

In golf....pretty close to everything is using everything......so, yes....a combination of hands, arms, and body.
 
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