The Release w/Brian Manzella & Michael Jacobs

Status
Not open for further replies.
So I guess I'll just add it here my hypothesis that the release is a squaring move and timing this release to be before or after the ball can be used to work the ball as well. As in early with the bat will hook, late with the bat will slice. A release perfectly timed to be on the ball is more or less, straight.
 
The flick is not a roll. I'm talking about timing the flick. Whether or not you can perform the flick, on the other hand, is another story. Once the clubhead snaps and slams through, you don't do a damn thing but hold on.
 
Last edited:
I'd say it's a lot like how Brian first was describing it, about aiming your shoulder complexes at a spot. That's where that flick is going to go. This way you don't really *time* it in the sense you're thinking, more like you're aiming to have that flick in the right spot. You still have to have the strength to get the club to fire where you're aiming. The higher speed you are swinging, the more speed your flick is going to have to have.

Is it easier to hook the ball if you dial back your swing?
 
What is the word to describe the type of golfer that has this release down pat? Oh yes, the WELL-TIMED golfer.

My question about hooking the ball was a yes or no question, not D-Plane. I know how to work the ball fine.
 

rcw

New
Dschultz I like your thoughts and input. Thanks for throwing them out there. I got what you were trying to say also, and I did not think to associate it with aiming point TGM concepts (which I am familiar with). I thought your descriptions were good ones.
 
More stuff...

Long drive guys like to tee it up way forward and high in order to give themselves more time to release the club at the ball because they are swinging so fast and their clubs are so long. If they didn't do this, they'd be late all day and hit big slices. This probably coincides with most of your guys' experience at trying to hit with a long drive club.
 
Last edited:
IS THIS A CORRECT STATEMENT?
The body is MORE LIKELY to react to the club if at the proper time the proper torque is applied to the coupling point while attempting to go normal.
 
Anyone hitting it lower?

I'm not sure if I drag the handle (probably), but I know I am a tugger. The release video shows how the proper away from the target move gives you more delay/club less likely to flee too soon. Took a lesson with Brian on trackman prior to the release information coming to light, and my dynamic loft was on the high side (95mph with a 6 or 7 iron, distance in around 155-160 I think). My ball flight is high.

(Quick aside: relatively speaking, I hit my lower irons far and the yardage gaps are acceptable; but my 7 - 4 irons have closer gaps, the 4 and 5 irons going embarrassingly short for my club speed).

My question is this: Has anybody LOWERED their ball flight since implementing the information in the release thread, and if people are doing the release correctly, should we expect that some would. Many people report hitting the ball better and higher. Not that the video was meant to fix a flip (high dynamic loft), but I'm hoping I can apply the information to get started getting more compression.

My hunch is that those reporting the higher ball flight might not be applying the release 100% correctly.
 

Kevin Shields

Super Moderator
One of the better side effects is that you end up having more lag than perhaps previously. Serious daggers should experience a higher ballflght but across the board it should be a regular, boring flight. The reason being, while the swing shallows, you are still presenting the same (if not more) forward lean at contact. Going normal, which some prob still consider a flip, just takes the lean out and shallows the divot.
 
At what point in the swing should the club appear to be 'Normal'?

Just like the flat left wrist is seen as a point in time, surely going normal is too?

Aplolgies if this has already ben answered - If so can someone point to the page number!?
 

Brian Manzella

Administrator
If you put a bunch of tin cans tied together behind a car—ala the wedding getaway car—even if you shaped them into a 90° angle, the car would eventually pull them straight.

If the imaginary golf ball was hit "on the way to getting pulled straight" the force was still normal to the clubhead tied to the caboose end of the cans.

That is PRECISELY how you get a shallow angle of attack and forward lean.

..............

We have been saying this since the beginning of this thread. (no offense Gary)

Where in the hell did we EVER say you should release early, as in UNCOCK EARLY.

In the video, the "out-toss" is simply two things, the small amount of non-tangental force you HAVE TO HAVE EARLY to keep the club from jackknifing, and sort of an anti-over drag drill that I have used with great success to get folks going in the correct manner.

But I flatly say, and Mike Jacobs has flatly said, that doing this start-down move will result in MORE RETAINED WRIST COCK by left arm level.

So that does't seem so early to me.

Plus, like I said in the other "things we now know thread," you just can't look at a still from a video and determine WHERE someone is TRYING TO RELEASE.

Some folks doing the ideas we have seen in every hub path study wind up losing re-cock earlier, some later.

Remember folks, these are 4 different things:

#1. Where the wrist start to uncock from their most cocked downswing angle.

#2. Where the golfer STARTED the process of uncorking from their most cocked downswing angle.

#3. How much "out of line" left arm to the clubshaft angle there is "down at the bottom" of the swing.

#4. When the golfer begins to "go normal."
 

Brian Manzella

Administrator
"Replace" the Left Arm is an idea that Mike Jacobs showed me that is another, potentially better, way to explain the arm tumble.

replaceleftarm.jpg
 
Ill be the volunteer moron: I see these colors as left arm in certain random areas, but have no idea what's going on........at least relative to what's getting replaced?
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top